
Climbing up Moel y Croesau, Hill of the Crosses, near Trawsfynydd, the climber can see many landmarks: the Llyene Peninsula stretching languorously into the Irish Sea, the hills of Porthmadog, and Afon Dwyryd and its tributaries. It's a map come to life pinned down in the wild wind by pylons that seem to send crackles down their wires.
On November 19, 1943, under a waning crescent moon, four airmen died and two survived when their Wellington bomber crashed upon this desolate landscape. It was routine flight, but radio failure, a cloudy night, and, due to their blind wandering, a diminishing fuel supply doomed the mission. In the dark hours after midnight they had no choice but to descend in order to try to establish their position, but their plane's wing clipped an outcropping of rock on Moel y Croesau, which stands at 1,608 feet. We had come up this hill to pay tribute.